Understanding how cognac is made changes the way you drink it. Cognac is a French brandy produced exclusively in the Charente region of south-west France. It begins as white wine, goes through double distillation, and then spends years — sometimes decades — ageing in oak before it reaches the bottle. 

Every stage is governed by strict French law under appellation d'origine contrôlée regulations. No other spirit follows quite the same path. This guide walks through each stage clearly, from the vineyard to the glass, so you know exactly what is in the bottle before you buy.

Key Takeaways

• The six stages of the cognac production process

• Why the French cognac region matters to quality and flavour

• What eau-de-vie distillation involves and why it happens twice

• How cognac ageing in oak barrels shapes the final spirit

How Cognac Is Made, The Six Stages at a Glance

How cognac is made is a legally defined process. Every bottle must follow the same six stages in the same region. No shortcuts are permitted.

1. Harvesting: Ugni Blanc grapes are picked in autumn, typically in October

2. Fermentation: Grapes are pressed and fermented into a thin, acidic wine

3. Double distillation: The wine is distilled twice in a Charentaise copper pot still

4. Ageing: The resulting eau-de-vie rests in oak barrels for a minimum of two years

5. Blending: The cellar master combines eau-de-vie from different casks and vintages

6. Bottling: The final blend is diluted to the correct ABV and bottled

This is the cognac production process in its simplest form. Each stage is explored in detail below.

Stages 1 and 2. Growing Grapes in the French Cognac Region

The Ugni Blanc Grape — Why This Variety Dominates

The French cognac region is not known for producing great table wine. That is intentional. Ugni Blanc grapes account for roughly 98% of all grapes used in cognac production. They are high in acidity and low in sugar — not particularly pleasant to drink as wine, but almost perfectly suited to distillation.

The French cognac region is divided into six growing areas called crus. Each produces eau-de-vie with a distinct character:

• Grande Champagne cru: Chalky limestone soil, which produces the most delicate and age-worthy eau-de-vie

• Petite Champagne: Similar soil to Grande Champagne, slightly less finesse

• Borderies: Clay and flint produce nutty, violet-tinged spirits that mature faster

• Fins Bois: Varied soil, fruity and rounder, the most widely used cru

• Bons Bois and Bois Ordinaires: Produce lighter, less complex spirits used in younger blends

Terroir — the combination of soil, climate, and geography — is what makes Grande Champagne cru the most prized source of raw material in the entire region. Spirits from this cru are specifically sought by collectors for their ability to develop complexity over decades of cask maturation.

Fermentation: Turning Grapes into Wine First

Once harvested, the grapes are pressed and fermented naturally. No sugar, no sulphites, and no additives are permitted by law. The result is a thin, acidic wine of around 7–9% ABV. It is not made to be drunk. It is made to be distilled.

Stage 3. Eau-de-Vie Distillation in a Charentais Copper Pot Still

Eau-de-vie distillation is the heart of the cognac production process. It happens twice — a legal requirement that gives cognac its characteristic smoothness and depth.

Here is how double distillation works step by step:

1. The wine is heated in a Charentais copper pot still — the only still type permitted by law

2. The first distillation produces a liquid called brouillis, at approximately 28–32% ABV

3. The brouillis is distilled a second time, producing eau-de-vie at 68–72% ABV

4. Only the heart of the second distillation — called the coeur — is kept for ageing

5. The heads and tails are discarded or redistilled separately

Copper is not an aesthetic choice. It actively removes sulphur compounds from the distillate, producing a cleaner, more refined French brandy. The entire distillation process must be completed by 31st March following the harvest — another legal requirement under the appellation d'origine contrôlée framework.

The volume reduction is significant. It takes roughly nine litres of wine to produce just one litre of eau-de-vie. That ratio is one reason why aged cognac commands the prices it does.

Stage 4. Cognac Ageing in Oak Barrels

Fresh eau-de-vie is clear, sharp, and largely unpleasant to drink. Time in Oak changes everything.

Cognac ageing in oak barrels is where colour, flavour, and complexity all develop. Two types of oak are approved for use:

• Limousin oak — More porous, allows faster extraction of tannins, produces richer vanilla, spice, and dried fruit notes

• Tronçais oak — Denser grain, slower maturation, produces a drier and more structured result

As the spirit ages, approximately 3% evaporates from each barrel every year. This is known as the angels' share — a romantic term for a very real loss that contributes to the rarity and cost of older expressions.

Cognac grades are defined by the minimum age of the youngest eau-de-vie in the blend:

For cognac gifting occasions — Chinese New Year, corporate milestones, or a significant birthday — a VSOP is a reliable and well-received choice. An XO signals real intention. In practice, many XO expressions from major houses contain eau-de-vie aged 30, 40, or even 50 years, making them genuinely worth cellaring as long-term investments.

The Role of the Cellar Master in the Cognac Production Process

This is the stage most guides skip. The cognac production process is not automated at its most important moment — it depends entirely on one person.

The cellar master, or maître de chai, is responsible for selecting, blending, and approving every expression before it reaches the bottle. The role requires years of training and an exceptionally refined sensory ability. Decisions are made by smell, colour, and taste — not by machine.

A single XO blend may draw from hundreds of different eau-de-vie sourced from different crus, different barrel ages, and different harvest years. The cellar master's job is to combine them in a way that produces a consistent house style — one that tastes the same this year as it did five years ago, despite natural variation in every harvest.

At Hennessy, the Master Blender role has been held within the same family for eight generations. That continuity of human judgement is what gives a bottle its character — and its value.

For those who want to understand this process firsthand, tasting sessions and Masterclasses offer a direct way to experience how eau-de-vie distillation, cask maturation, and blending translate into what ends up in the glass.

How the French Cognac Region Shapes Every Bottle

Appellation d'origine contrôlée means cognac can only legally be called cognac if it is produced within a precisely defined geographical area. This is not branding — it is law.

The six crus of the French cognac region each produce a distinct style:

Where the grapes grew determines how the spirit tastes and how well it ages. A Grande Champagne cru expression has the structure to develop complexity over decades of cognac ageing in oak barrels. A Fins Bois expression matures faster and works well in VSOP blends. Understanding this is what separates a considered purchase from a random one.

Frequently Asked Questions About How Cognac Is Made

What grapes are used to make cognac? 

Ugni Blanc grapes are used in roughly 98% of all cognac production. They are chosen not for their flavour as a wine grape but for their high acidity and low sugar content, which makes them ideal for double distillation. Small quantities of Folle Blanche and Colombard are also permitted.

How long does it take to make cognac? 

The minimum is around two years from harvest to bottle for a VS expression. However, the finest expressions involve cask maturation that spans decades. An XO legally requires a minimum of ten years, but many premium XO blends contain eau-de-vie aged thirty years or more.

What is the difference between VS, VSOP, and XO cognac? 

These are cognac grades defined by the minimum age of the youngest spirit in the blend. VS is a minimum of two years, VSOP a minimum of four years, and XO a minimum of ten years. The older the blend, the greater the complexity — and the higher the price.

Why is cognac only made in France? 

Appellation d'origine contrôlée law restricts the use of the name cognac to spirits produced within the defined French cognac region around the town of Cognac in Charente. Spirits made using the same method outside this region cannot legally be called cognac.

What is the angels' share in cognac production? 

The angels' share refers to the approximately 3% of spirit that evaporates from each barrel every year during cognac ageing in oak barrels. Over ten years, a barrel loses roughly a quarter of its original volume. This natural loss is one of the key reasons why older expressions are rarer and more expensive.